The British Museum has over 7 million objects from around the world, covering all aspects of human history. It's almost impossible to see them in a single day, but I gave it my best shot over several hours. First opened in 1759, the enormous columned frontage opens into a newly-completed (2000) atrium with a large tessellated glass roof that lets the light glow through. The first exhibit you come across is this, the Rosetta Stone. Discovered by the French in 1799, the tabletop-sized rock was seized by the British during the Napoleonic campaigns in North Africa and spirited back to London. It is one of the most important archaeological finds in history, as it shows two ancient Egyptian languages translated into Greek. It took a further 25yrs for it to be deciphered, but when completed scholars had a way of reading hieroglyphics for the first time. This drawing shows the three clear text groupings. In 2003, the Egyptians asked for it back - but the British Museum refused, and sent them a copy.
Right at the back of the Americas wing is this, the mask of the Aztec god Tezcatlipoca. He was seriously omnipotent - he was the "god of night and all material things, god of the north, lord of the world, god of robbers, spirit of darkness, god of discord and deceit, god of beauty and war, and lord of heroes and lovely girls." His main weapon was a magic mirror, Itlachiayaque, that destroyed his enemies by giving off smoke. He was the rival of the other great Aztec god, Quetzalcoatl. Between them, these twin gods made the world, although in so doing Tezcatlipoca lost his foot - used as bait to attract the monstress of the earth, Cipactli. Falling for the trick, the twins twisted her body into land for their new world, and ever since Tezcatlipoca is depcited with only one leg. This mask is made from a human skull, covered in jade and polished obsidian.
'The Parthenon Sculptures in London' are usually known as the Elgin Marbles, and are the most controversial of all the British Museum's exhibits. Acquired from the Athens ruin in 1806 by the 7th Earl of Elgin, Thomas Bruce, they are a symbol of Western 'collecting' of sacred foreign sites, and the disputes which arise. The Greek government has repeatedly demanded the return of the sculptures, and are currently constructing a new Acropolis Museum to house them. The British argue that removing the friezes saved them, and a leaflet reveals their position, which seems to be roughly 'The Greeks allowed the building to be ruined and can't be trusted with them' (although it doesn't say that in as many words). The Parthenon was actually ruined in 1687 when used as a gunpowder store, an explosion ripping off many of the statuary, so they may have a point. I'm not sure about some of the language they use in their argument, however - "The division of sculptures between...Athens and London allows different and complementary stories to the told about them."
The statues and friezes themselves are pretty impressive, although so badly damaged by time and explosives that it's hard to get a clear picture of what they would have been like in their heyday. The Museum tries though, there are diagrams, charts and models telling the visitor the position of the marbles, and what it all means. I also learned a new word - Metope - a 'rectangular slab placed above the architrave of a Doric temple' (I'm pretending that I know what an architrave and Doric temple are). Of the four sides of the Parthenon, the British Museum has just one - the South side, which depicts rather amusingly drunken fighting at a wedding. When Pirithous, king of the Lapiths, married Hippodamia the invited Centaurs became drunk and tried to carry off the Lapith women. Pirithous's best friend was Theseus, so if he was best man, presumably he had to break up the scuffling and get the DJ to quickly play something everyone could dance to.
Of course, it's not just large statues, mummies and other big weighty objects. The museum has extensive collections of personal objects from around the world, from throughout history. Arranged by historical period, and then by item type, you can quickly find something of interest. Here your author is reflected in an Etruscan bronze hand mirror from 250BC. The highly polished surface is slightly convex, allowing the whole head to be seen. It was quite spooky to imagine a haughty noblewoman looking at her reflection in this very mirror, 2300 years ago.
This cheerful looking fellow could be a terracotta Santa Claus, but is actually a haniwa clay figure from 500AD Japan, the Kofun period of artistic military society. Large numbers of these were arranged on top of ruler's mounded tombs, specially made to depict events from the dead persons life. Their features were simplified and exaggerated to be visible from a respectful distance. I like the idea of the best parts of your life reduced to clay statues and arranged on your grave - a kind of 'This is Your Life' puppet show. Easier for ancient monarchs - "This statue depicts the king's glorious coronation", harder for modern people - "This clay figurine is believed to represent when Dave won £50 on a scratchcard"
British Museum website
British Museum Parthenon debate
Hellenic Ministry of Culture
The Acropolis Restoration Project
